The World of Apples

Growing regions

Val di Non

An Alpine plateau of orchards that keeps part of its crop 300 m underground, in a dolomite mine

How apples came

The specification of the protected designation of origin (PDO), Mela Val di Non, finds the apple deep in the valley’s past: Malè, in the Val di Sole, takes its name from the Latin Maletum, “place of apples”, as Malosco does; village charters of 1564 and 1641 are cited as witnesses; and in 1739 a noble family was asked to send a basket of “pomi rosmarini” to Vienna, where they were already prized1. The orchards are younger. A provincial study of Trentino’s farm landscapes finds no specialised apple orchards in the valley before 1850; apples grew mostly in the small walled gardens of the better-off, while the fields were given to the mulberry2.

Disease made the change. When the mulberry and the vine were struck in the second half of the nineteenth century, many families emigrated, and some of those who stayed planted apples3,4. The first orchards, of tall, widely spaced trees, went in above the limits of the vine and the mulberry, and the agricultural institute at San Michele all’Adige, founded in 1874, kept an experimental station and nursery in the valley with 150 apple varieties, among them late French cider apples, to spread among the growers of southern Tyrol2. Prizes followed at exhibitions in Vienna2,4.

By the end of the 1930s, the growers’ consortium says, 40% of Trentino’s fruit came from the Val di Non and 70% of its exports left from there4. Trees still stood in hay meadows, 80 to 100 to the hectare and about 10 m apart, and in the 1920s and 1930s public nurseries handed out free trees to plant there2. After the Second World War the growers formed co-operatives3. Clonal rootstocks brought intensive orchards of a single variety, Golden Delicious, in the 1970s, and by the 1990s the valley was an apple monoculture that had given up the pear and the mowing of orchard grass for hay2. In 1989 a consortium, Melinda, was founded at Cles; it unites all sixteen of the area’s co-operatives and more than 4,000 member growers3. The PDO was registered by an EU regulation of 22 September 20035.

How they’re grown

The Val di Non is less a valley than a plateau, known for apples grown high2; its orchards lie between 500 and 1,000 m3, having climbed to that height as temperatures rose in the 1960s and 1970s, by the consortium’s account4. The PDO covers the catchment of the Noce torrent in the Val di Non and the Val di Sole, in the province of Trento. Its specification credits calcareous-dolomitic soils found in no other fruit district, and autumns in which nights of 2–6 °C follow days of 18–22 °C; hail is uncommon and damaging spring frosts fairly rare. Orchards are watered as needed from March to October, grass is kept between the rows, and every tree is pruned by hand in winter1.

Small, close-set trees with drip irrigation and hail nets have replaced the old tall trees in meadows4. The trees flower around mid-April, and sprinklers that coat the buds in protective ice are used on only a few hectares3; hail hit parts of the valleys in late spring and early summer 202512. The work depends on outsiders: in 2024 the provincial labour agency recorded 13,681 farm hires in the Val di Non and 893 in the Val di Sole, half of all farm hires in the province, 81% of them foreign workers and 26% women12. The PDO’s yield cap of 68 t/ha1 would rise to 90 t/ha under a revision put out for objection in September 202611.

What’s picked

About 6,500 of Trentino’s roughly 9,500 ha of apple orchards were in the Val di Non, according to the provincial study of 20172. ISTAT’s figures, published by the province’s statistics institute, give Trentino 5.1 million quintals (510,000 tonnes) of apples in 2021 and 4,860,000 quintals (486,000 tonnes) in 2023, when Italy’s total was 22,677,454 quintals7,8. Apples, mostly Golden Delicious, make up about 80% of the value of Trentino’s fruit, and almost every farm business in the Val di Non grows fruit7. The PDO certified 151,431 tonnes in 2022 and 125,670 tonnes in 2023, worth €63 million at production in 20239, and one PDO apple in five is exported10. The consortium takes more than 98% of the valleys’ apples, about 400,000 tonnes a year3.

Only Golden Delicious, Renetta Canada and Red Delicious may carry the PDO1; all three have been grown here for more than sixty years3. The specification allows picking by hand only, in August, September, October and the first half of November as each variety ripens1; the consortium’s own season runs from mid-August, with Gala among the first, to the end of October, with Fuji last13.

Part of the crop is kept inside a mountain. In the Rio Maggiore dolomite mine at Tuennetto di Predaia, in galleries about 300 m deep3, twelve controlled-atmosphere rooms in a first lot and eleven in a second were open by December 2016, holding about 19,000 tonnes; they lie at about 575 m above sea level and 275 m beneath the orchards above, the rock insulates them, and they use roughly half the energy of stores built in the open6. By 2022 the consortium kept 30,000 tonnes there, at 1 °C with the oxygen lowered to 1.3%3.

On the table

The specification says the Renetta Canada changes as it keeps, from crisp, sharply acid flesh to soft and sweet1. The harvest is celebrated at Pomaria, a festival begun at Casez in 2005, whose twentieth edition was set for 17 and 18 October 2026, back at Casez; its name recalls the Latin pomarium, an orchard, and Pomona, the Roman goddess of fruit. Its programme included cookery workshops on three Trentino traditions, apple strudel, canederli and ricotta gnocchi14. The historic orchard at Cles keeps 80 old apple varieties3,14.

The Italian word is mela15. In the valley’s Nones dialect apples are pomi14, from pomo, which Treccani records as a word for the apple now popular only in some regions16.

Notes

  • A provincial study calls the Rosa di Fondo, an apple tree of the upper Val di Non put at 240 years old, the largest living apple tree in Europe and probably one of the oldest2.
  • A 2006 survey at Sarnonico and Seio counted 833 fruit trees over 50 years old, 331 of them apples2.
  • Trentino’s 2025 crop was forecast at 5% more than the year before12.

Where the sources disagree

  • How old the orchards are. The specification traces the valley’s apples to a Latin place name, charters of 1564 and 1641 and a letter of 17391; the provincial study, Il Post and the consortium find no apple orchards before about 18502,3,4. The study reconciles them: fruit trees are old here, but grew in walled gardens, not in the fields2.
  • Vienna. The growers’ consortium dates the first prize to the World Exhibition of 18734; the provincial study records Trentino’s success at a Vienna fruit exhibition in 18882.
  • Growers. The specification speaks of more than 5,000 producers1, Il Post of more than 4,000 consortium members3, the PDO’s control body of almost 4,000 operators10.
  • The mine. Il Post dates the trials to 2011 and regular use to 20153; the province’s 2016 release has a pilot from 2012. It gave about 19,000 tonnes of capacity in 20166; Il Post reported 30,000 tonnes stored in 20223.
  • Area and share. No official statistic of apple area or output for the Val di Non alone was found; the 6,500 ha is the provincial study’s round figure2. The province’s 2026 release credits the two valleys with about 20% of Italy’s apples14; on ISTAT’s 2023 figures all of Trentino grew about 21%8, an inference. The consortium’s 400,000 tonnes3 covers the Val di Sole and all varieties; the certified tonnage9 counts only apples sold under the PDO.
  • The season. The specification’s picking runs into the first half of November1, the consortium’s to the end of October13.
Val di Non
Where Val di Non is.

Sources

  1. Disciplinare di produzione della denominazione di origine protetta «Mela Val di Non», Ministero dell'agricoltura, della sovranità alimentare e delle foreste (specification in force). Supports: the three varieties; the Noce catchment in the Val di Non and Val di Sole; Maletum, 'posto delle mele'; the charters of 1564 and 1641; the 1739 letter and its 'pomi rosmarini'; over 5,000 producers; calcareous-dolomitic soils, autumn nights of 2–6 °C and days of 18–22 °C, humidity near 75%, little hail and rare spring frost; irrigation from March to October; grass between the rows and winter pruning by hand; picking by hand in August, September, October and the first half of November; the 68 t/ha cap; storage in controlled-atmosphere cold rooms; the Renetta Canada's flesh turning from crisp and sharp to soft and sweet.
  2. Paesaggi agro-forestali in Trentino: tutela, ripristino e miglioramento degli ambienti tradizionali, Giovanni Giovannini (ed.), Servizio foreste e fauna, Provincia autonoma di Trento (ISBN 978-88-7702-433-6), June 2017. Supports: about 6,500 of Trentino's 9,500 ha of apples in the Val di Non; the valley as a plateau known for high-altitude apples; apples in walled house gardens and mulberry in the fields; no specialised orchards before 1850; the first extensive orchards in the later 1800s; San Michele (founded 1874) and its station and nursery in the valley with 150 varieties, including French cider apples; the provincial agricultural council of 1882 and itinerant teachers; Vienna 1888; 80–100 trees a hectare about 10 m apart; free trees in the autarky years; clonal rootstocks and Golden Delicious in the 1970s; monoculture in the 1990s; the Rosa di Fondo; the 2006 count of old trees at Sarnonico and Seio.
  3. La miniera delle mele, Riccardo Congiu and Claudio Caprara, Il Post, 30 May 2022. Supports: mulberry and vine ruined by disease and families emigrating; co-operatives after the Second World War; the consortium founded at Cles in 1989, its sixteen co-operatives, more than 4,000 members, more than 98% of the apples and 400,000 t a year; orchards at 500–1,000 m; flowering in mid-April and frost sprinkling on a few hectares; the three PDO varieties grown for over sixty years; the mine's trials from 2011 and use from 2015; 30,000 t stored at 1 °C with 1.3% oxygen; the historic orchard at Cles with 80 kinds of apple; the mine galleries about 300 m deep.
  4. Le mele in Trentino, la scommessa vinta da una comunità, Consorzio Melinda (the growers' consortium's own account). Supports: no apple growing before 1850; disease of mulberry and vine and emigration; the first prize at Vienna in 1873; the meadow orchards of the early 1900s; 40% of Trentino's fruit and 70% of its exports at the end of the 1930s; orchards climbing to 1,000 m in the 1960s and 1970s as temperatures rose; small close-set trees, drip irrigation and hail nets.
  5. Commission Regulation (EC) No 1665/2003 of 22 September 2003 (Clementine del Golfo di Taranto, Mela Val di Non and Clementinas de las Tierras del Ebro), Official Journal of the European Union, via EUR-Lex, 22 September 2003. Supports: the registration of Mela Val di Non as a protected designation of origin.
  6. Mele Melinda «in grotta»: inaugurato a Predaia il secondo lotto delle celle ipogee, Ufficio stampa, Provincia autonoma di Trento, 13 December 2016. Supports: the Rio Maggiore dolomite mine at Tuennetto di Predaia; the pilot from 2012; twelve cells in the first lot and eleven in the second, holding about 19,000 t; cells at about 575 m above sea level and 275 m beneath the orchards; energy use roughly halved; oxygen below 2%.
  7. Sistema informativo statistico «Conoscere l'agricoltura», ISPAT, Istituto di statistica della provincia di Trento, 23 November 2023. Supports: 5.1 million quintals of apples in Trentino in 2021 (so the series is in quintals); apples about 80% of the value of its fruit, mostly Golden Delicious; almost every farm business in the Val di Non a fruit grower.
  8. Produzione di mele (indicatore strutturale 84): tabella del numeratore, ISPAT, Provincia autonoma di Trento, from ISTAT data, updated 29 May 2024. Supports: apple production in quintals: Trentino 5,100,100 in 2021 and 4,860,000 in 2023; Italy 22,677,454 in 2023.
  9. Rapporto Ismea-Qualivita 2024 sulle produzioni agroalimentari e vitivinicole italiane DOP IGP STG, Ismea and Fondazione Qualivita, November 2024. Supports: certified PDO output of 151,431 t in 2022 and 125,670 t in 2023, worth €63 million at production in 2023.
  10. Mela Val di Non DOP, una mela su cinque all'estero, CSQA Certificazioni, the PDO's control body, 8 May 2024. Supports: one PDO apple in five exported; almost 4,000 operators.
  11. Domanda di modifica ordinaria del disciplinare della DOP «Mela Val di Non» - 2026, Ministero dell'agricoltura, della sovranità alimentare e delle foreste, 25 September 2026. Supports: the proposed amendment, open to objection for a month from 25 September 2026, raising the yield cap to 90 t/ha.
  12. Al via la raccolta delle mele, in val di Non e val di Sole ben 15 mila addetti (quasi tutti stranieri), il Dolomiti, 20 August 2025. Supports: hail in late spring and early summer 2025; Trentino's crop forecast 5% up; 13,681 farm hires in the Val di Non and 893 in the Val di Sole in 2024 (provincial labour agency), half the province's, 81% foreign, 26% women.
  13. La raccolta delle mele, il momento clou della stagione, Consorzio Melinda, 12 September 2022. Supports: the consortium's harvest from mid-August, with Gala among the first, to the end of October, Fuji last.
  14. La Val di Non celebra i vent'anni di Pomaria, Ufficio stampa, Provincia autonoma di Trento, 14 October 2026. Supports: Pomaria, first held at Casez in 2005, its twentieth edition set for 17–18 October 2026; pomarium and Pomona; pomi as the Nones dialect's word for apples; strudel, canederli and ricotta gnocchi as Trentino traditions; the historic orchard at Cles with 80 old cultivars.
  15. mela, Vocabolario Treccani online. Supports: mela, the fruit of the melo.
  16. pomo, Vocabolario Treccani online. Supports: pomo for the apple, today popular only in some regions; from Latin pomum.